Welcome to April’s serving of Have You Eaten? This month our chosen food is Bibimbap, also known as mixed rice. The name bibimbap breaks into two parts to describe the meal - bibim (비빔) meaning “to mix with various ingredients” and bap (밥) meaning “rice”. Bibimbap is a simple, homely yet hearty and relatively healthy meal. It is usually prepared with rice, whatever banchan (반찬 or side dishes) is at hand and mixed with some sauce to tie it all together, traditionally gochujang (고추장 or red chilli/pepper paste) is used.
A Brief History of Bibimbap
The true origin story of bibimbap’s creation is not actually known. There are a number of theories about when and where in history it first was created:

• Royal origins theory - It was originally a simple dish known as “sura” ( 수라 King’s meal) served during the Joseon dynasty when a light meal was required or when the royal family attended court.
• Peasant food theory - During harvest season farmers would take all their food combined in one bowl with them.
• Donghak uprising theory - During the uprising of 1894 the rebels were forced to mix their dishes together as there was a general lack of crockery to eat from.
• Eunbok theory - After the completion of ancestral rites people would take a portion of each dish into a bowl and mix them together.
• Lunar New Year theory - On the eve of the lunar new year ordinary people would take all the leftover food they had and mix it together with rice as it was considered necessary to get rid of all uneaten dishes before the new year began.

It is believed that the dish was originally known as “goldongban” which translates as “rice mixed vigorously” (also “hwaban” which means “flower blooming on top of rice”) and is recorded as early as the 17th century, with the earliest recipe being recorded in the Siuijeonseo. Some sources state this is the first in print mention of “bibimbap”, however, a study from 2015 argues against this.
In the late 1990’s Korea Air was the first airline to serve bibimbap as an inflight meal paving the way for it to become an internationally renowned signature dish of Korea. Since then the dish has grown in popularity on a global scale.
Now there are all sorts of modern takes on bibimbap from cup bibimbap, to easy microwavable bibimbap, to all sorts of bibimbap flavoured dishes, they have even developed it so that astronauts can fulfil their bibimbap cravings but none of these can beat the original form.
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Symbolism of Bibimbap
As a dish bibimbap is very symbolic. It is said to “symbolise the harmony and balance in Korean culture”. Additionally the individual colours of the ingredients are also symbolic following the principles of the five elemental colours (Obangsaek 오방색) each colour represents a body part, a position and an element.
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Colour	Body Part	Position	Element	Representative Ingredients in Bibimbap
Red (Orange)	Heart	South	Fire	Gochugang, Carrots, Chilli, Jujube
Black (Brown)	Kidneys	North	Water	Mushrooms, Seaweed, Beef
Blue (Green)	Liver	East	Tree	Cucumber, Spinach
Yellow	Stomach	Centre	Earth	Egg Yolk
White	Lungs	West	Metal	Rice, Bean Sprouts, Radish

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Varieties of Bibimbap
As mentioned above bibimbap is a dish which combines rice with a number of ingredients, the typical inclusions you will see are namul (sauteed seasoned vegetables 나물) and kimchi (김치). It may be topped with a protein (either cooked or raw) and/or an egg (either cooked or raw). Gochujang is typically added to bring everything together and add a kick. Other common additions include sesame oil, soy sauce, and doenjang (fermented soybean paste 된장).
Bibimbap is endlessly customisable to an individual’s taste, so I’ll just discuss a few of the main versions you can find. The names of the different variations of bibimbap generally stem from the location in which they originated, the type of dish in which they are served, or the type of protein featured in them.
Jeonju Bibimbap (전주비빔밥) - the most famous of all regional bibimbap varieties. In this version there are many different inclusions most importantly the rice is cooked in beef and bean sprout broth and one of the inclusions is bean sprouts grown in the area. This is typically served in a warm brass bowl.
Dolsot Bibimbap (hot stone pot bibimbap 돌솥 비빔밥) - this version of bibimbap is served in a hot stone pot
Yangpun Bibimbap (양푼비빔밥) - this version of bibimbap is served in a yangpun bowl (metal bowl).
Sanchae Bibimbap (bibimbap with wild vegetables 산채비빔밥 ) - this version of bibimbap is made using seasoned leafy greens and other wild root vegetables found in the mountains.
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Memorable Scenes in Korean Dramas Featuring Bibimbap
Bibimbap usually appears in a drama under one of the following circumstances:
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1. A character has reached a new low /is stressed out by life; they drown their sorrows in a big bowl of bibimbap usually whilst wearing their best tracksuit/in secret.
2. A character is too lazy to prepare a meal or has almost no food left to eat and they are starving
3. A lower class character is eating in front of a chaebol or higher class character and for some reason they have no ramen on hand (poor sheltered chaebols have never tried either of these foods, it’s pretty hilarious!)
4. A character needs to bond over food with someone they are not that close to. Bibimbap is best when shared out of a big metal bowl.

As this is the usual case it’s hard to think of too many super memorable scenes featuring bibimbap. Here are a few that I personally enjoyed:
In the first season of Let’s Eat Lee Soo Kyung’s mother comes to visit and prepares bibimbap as a meal and comments that it might not be good enough. Goo Dae Yeong replies that it is perfect as it is impossible to get the right taste when only making one portion. Apart from the horror of the eggshell in the frying pan that catches my eye every time I watch, this is a great mukbang scene which showcases the dish bibimbap and how it should be eaten well. It definitely made me want to try it out.
In the classic rom-com Full House, frustrated at waiting for Young Jae to come home, Ji Eun begins a late dinner of bibimbap. When he arrives home she offers him some only for him to tell her “that’s not bibimbap, that’s dog food!. No, I don’t eat things like that”. A few days later she catches him stuffing his face with bibimbap and has to help him alleviate his resulting indigestion. I really like how the scene where Rain prepares the bibimbap and stuffs his face is shot, so here’s an endless loop of it.
Bibimbap is a common feature in many family dramas as you see more of the characters day to day life which includes simple home meals like bibimbap. In the drama Smile, You, the family members were under strict rules for when and what they could eat and so there were a few sneaky bibimbap scenes along the way. In one of these scenes, in order to get Jung In to eat something after having not eaten all day Hyun Soo demands she make him some food. Reluctantly she prepares him some bibimbap which he rejects saying it is too salty and that she has to eat it all or she’ll dob her in for wasting food. The bibimbap she prepared was so-so but this scene was particularly nice as it highlighted the change in the leads relationship.
What bibimbap scenes are memorable for you?
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What Experiences Have you had Eating and Making Bibimbap?
Bibimbap is my mother’s absolute favourite Korean food, so I have extremely warm feelings about it because she gets adorably excited at the prospect of eating it every single time it comes up in conversation. I didn’t personally try it before my trip to Korea as it was something that was easy to find everywhere. My first time eating it was on my flight to Korea and it was so delicious I was mad at myself for choosing other dishes over it in the past.
I also ate it by the seaside after visiting Odeo island. I am not 100% sure what sea creature it was because my Korean is about as basic as my ability to identify sea creatures. I think it was possibly sea urchin, whatever it was it was pretty great.
As for cooking, I’ve made bibimbap a few times but I’m pretty lazy with the whole cooking the ingredients separately in order of darkness concept so I don't make it very often. My Korean Kitchen is my usual go to for Korean recipes. By some miracle I managed to find some gochujang at the supermarket today so I’m going to make this one for dinner tonight.
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What’s the Next Course?
Next month is KDRAMA’s 10th birthday so we will be celebrating in the traditional way with a bowl of Seaweed Soup (Miyeok guk 미역국) on the big day (Sunday 10th of May).
Until then we’d love to hear your experiences with bibimbap be it simply on screen envy or more in the comments below.
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Additional Bibimbap Material:

• Historical and Biological Aspects of Bibimbap a Korean Ethnic Food - The study which argues against the theories surrounding bibimbap's history
• Bibimbap Globalisation Foundation Story of Bibimbap - Origin of bibimbap, mentions in literature, and Jeonju Bibimbap information
• Visit Korea's page on Bibimbap - More regional varieties with pictures
• Stop eating it wrong - Bibimbap - For “correct eating technique” tips see this video (or just do your own thing - no judgement here).

Hello
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I'm learning the HTML and CSS coding from udemy , and just can't figure it out where is the mistake.
I tried to delete almost everything to see where is the problem, but I just can't figure it out.
The horizontal orange line won't take the right margin size.
It should be like on the left side on the picture.
https://imgur.com/6X3Yl8P
Here is the whole files:
https://gofile.io/?c=lIYlR4
Would be a big help to keep up the good work.

            
  
 
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Trip Report Time!
My first trip to Japan was a huge success! You might even say it was the trip of a lifetime. Lurking this subreddit for 3 months helped me a lot with regards to planning it out, so I'd like to give back with an overly-detailed accounting of how things went, and in the spirit of other reports I've seen, list where I succeeded, where I messed up, and what I could have done differently. This post may actually be longer than War and Peace, so feel free to use the search function to find relevant locations.
Mods, please remove any of my links if inappropriate.
I traveled solo with just a carry-on backpack, messenger bag, and JR Pass, and my intention was to go sightseeing and see as much variety in Japan as I could squeeze into 15 days, and as cheaply as possible. I charted out the distances between the places I wanted to go and even printed out daily itineraries into booklets via Odigo.com. I also reasoned that walking a lot would keep me in shape for work, allow me to see more of the country than if I were in subways most of the time, and save me money, since I’d be spending less if I was constantly on the move. As someone who has lived in Manila, Los Angeles, and other places with great Japanese food, I have had consistently great Japanese food my whole life, and it's never as fun for me to eat alone, so food wasn't my #1 priority, although I did allot a couple of nights to pigging out.
I have good legs and stamina and I accomplished my goals and then some, and although I wasn't able to do a couple of things due to poor planning (should be a no-brainer, but please check the closed days for parks and markets in advance!!), random encounters, or unexpected circumstances, I'm really happy with how my trip turned out, though please be aware that my plans involved a lot of walking (though some of that distance was from being turned around, lost, or too stubborn or cheap). According to my phone, I walked a total of 228.3 miles (367.4 km) in 15 days.
Original plans in italics under each date. After my recollection of events, I will detail what I might have done differently, as well as my thoughts in hindsight.
TL;DR, quick and dirty tips for solo travelers day-tripping traveling at this time of year or earlier:

• Pack light for day trips. I mean the bare essentials.
• Important - you will be walking a lot, so bring the best insoles you can get, and have your laces loose to prevent blisters.
• Bring stick deodorant, and buy Gatsby wipes.
• A small, absorbent microfiber towel around the neck works wonders to absorb sweat caused by activity/humidity.
• I wore a dorky-looking but very functional RFID-blocking passport + cash + coin + ID holder around my neck. I found it to be essential and don't know what I would have done without it.
• One high-capacity power bank is great. Two is recommended.
• If you need selfie sticks, Don Quijote has cheaper ones than Yodabashi Camera (which typically has them on the first floor - don't go searching in vain in the camera section like I did).
• I didn't have an unlocked phone, so I went with Pocket WiFi, which worked great.
• Conbini breakfasts and lunches are most convenient for early risers/travelers hoping to get the most out of the daylight in late summeearly fall.
• Google Maps works very well for getting around Tokyo. It will even direct you to the right platforms. But if you're wanting to use one of the Kyoto Metro bus/subway passes, you'll definitely want to prepare a bit more, because Google Maps constantly directed me to the JR buses, which are not covered by the passes. So in Kyoto, it generally pays to study the detailed map and set of routes that the attendants in Kyoto Station offer freely with the bus/subway passes. Or you could just pay flat rates as you go and walk a lot.
• I took two semesters of Japanese in college and reviewed some of the language before leaving the USA. It was time well-spent. Much of Tokyo is English-friendly, but even a little bit of Japanese goes a long way in terms of communication. Being Filipino/Korean/American and having a better accent than an actual grasp on the language, I was often mistaken for a local, and the replies would be so fast I would have difficulty decoding them, so I actually learned to speak slowly and with a bit of a forced accent, to make it clear I was a tourist. So in some ways, my Japanese actually got worse while I was in Japan!
• I walked so much every day, it was imperative I showered each night, and since I packed quite light in terms of clothing, I had to allot an hour and a half of time to do wash every 3-4 days.
• Keep a stock of gummy vitamins and Vitamin-C drinks to stay healthy. Drink those gel-based energy drinks. Pocari Sweat is great for electrolytes.

What I'm glad I did:

• Scheduled two onsen trips, spaced evenly and after consecutive heavy travel days. The hot spring waters did wonders for me. I would have gone to a third onsen if I had another day.
• Used hostels in Tokyo and Kyoto as day bases to travel, and absorbed the cost of two nights to be able to leave my main backpack there for overnight trips in Kawaguchiko and Takayama.
• Walked as often as I could. This helped me save on money, allowed me to more fully experience the regions I was traveling in, kept me fit, and gave me ample opportunities for photography.
• Brought two power banks, just to have them.
• Printed out little itinerary booklets in advance, complete with addresses and notes. Crossing off things from my list was so satisfying and helped me to make and change plans on the fly.
• Went and spoke to the JR Pass employees personally to help me reserve seats for each shinkansen trip. I'd just tell them where I wanted to go, and voila! My tickets were printed out. This was usually a short and painless procedure and saved me the trouble of figuring things out for myself.

What I would have done differently right off the bat:

• Should have brought my work insoles and worn more comfortable, if less fashionable, shoes.
• Didn't need the Green JR Pass. During my trip, the Green Cars were more often than not sparsely populated, so the reserved seating, comfort, and the ability to charge my electronics was a big plus, but I felt that I could have gotten by just fine on the regular JR Pass.
• Should have brought a small collapsible umbrella with me, something that could hang off my messenger bag. That said, my friend's umbrella did double as a walking stick in a couple of helpful instances.
• Wish that I'd been a bit less ambitious in terms of walking around Kyoto without my eyes glued to my GPS, especially at night. I ought to have spent a few minutes just figuring out the bus/train routes, and may have seen a bit more than I did.
• Wish I'd studied the Kyoto bus and transit system in more detail, rather than relying on apps.
• Wish I'd brought Kyoto's green tea home for friends and family.
• Wish I'd allotted a bit more time to study up on Kanji before my trip.
• Wish I'd brought a roller luggage instead of a backpack for my carry-on - it would have been a bit easier to bring around and I might have fit more gifts/souvenirs in it.
• Wish I'd planned better to see the Tsukiji Fish Market rather than leaving the visit to the last minute, realizing it was closed, and missing out entirely.

What I will do differently next time:

• Travel with friends, for added fun value
• Experience more nightlife
• Eat more food
• Travel to see other regions (Hokkaido, Sapporo, Hiroshima, Okinawa, Fukushima, Kanazawa, etc...)
• Bring an International driver's license, just in case

My go-to kit for day trips:
A microfiber towel to put around my neck for sweat, a tumbler filled with water from my hostel's filter jug, my phone and pocket wifi, a pack of Gatsby wipes, a new stick deodorant I brought with me, my small notebook, map, and power bank (I brought two power banks and cycled them every day to let the other charge/rest).
9/29 Fri
Plan: Arrive at Haneda International Airport in evening, pick up pocket WiFi, check in at Asakusa-area hostel (9/29-10/5 booking)
Went as expected, except for stupidly losing my Suica card on the train due to squeezing through crowds at my exit. Be careful! Hang onto those cards, or personalize them with your name, so you can redeem if lost!
9/30 Sat
Plan: Akihabara, possibly see friend/s, go on Tokyo Pub Crawl
Actual destinations: (...walked to) Ueno Park (...train to) Tokyo Imperial Palace and Gardens, Tokyo National Museum of Modern Art (...train to) Ginza, Tokyo National Film Center (...train to) Akihabara Electric Town, Yodabashi Camera, Square-Enix Cafe (...train to) Roppongi Tokyo Pub Crawl
This day didn't go as planned at all, but it was still great. Fueled by energy, I got up super early and filled with adrenaline. I had prepared my messenger bag with the bare essentials (my go-to kit). Then I picked up coffee, breakfast, and onigiri from the 7-11 to sustain me until lunch (a daily routine), then walked from my Asakusa area hostel to Ueno Park (beautiful), then took the train from Ueno Station to the Tokyo Imperial Palace. I walked the grounds, then headed to the Tokyo National Museum of Modern Art (stunning). Then I hopped on over to Ginza to walk the strip and purchase some slim but stretchy pants at GU (since I realized I hadn't packed enough pants). This was a short trip, since I was really in the area to see the National Film Center (worth it only for hardcore Japanese film buffs - if you don't know who Kenji Mizoguchi is, give it a pass), which was also hosting a Jean-Pierre Melville exhibit. Then I returned to my hostel to change before heading out to Akihabara, where I checked out Yodabashi Camera and hung out at the Electric Town for a spell. Then it was off to Roppongi for the Tokyo Pub Crawl. This was an interesting way to spend the night, so to speak, and though I'm not a big drinker, the free drinks were on the weak side. The bars were crazy packed, but there was a bit more space at the clubs. I met up with a friend from my hostel, then spoke with a lot of other fellow tourists and swapped information. After meeting up with an old friend of mine from college and grabbing some ramen with him and his girlfriend, my hostel friend and I split the cab fare back to our hostel. I can't remember how much it cost, but it was definitely under 2,000 Yen each, and we both got some change after that. All in all, a fine day.
What I ought to have done: If I had known I'd be traveling so much on my first day, I ought to have definitely bought a subway day pass. I spent a lot of Yen just hopping from station to station on this day.
10/1 Sun
Plan: Harajuku, Shinjuku, Shibuya, see friend/s at night
Actual destinations: (...walk to) Tokyo Skytree (...train to) Asakusa Jinja Shrine and Senso-ji Temple (...train to) Akihabara - Sega Akihabara, Gamers, Mandarake Complex, Super Potato, etc… (...train to) Yoyogi Park, Harajuku’s Takeshita Street (...train to) Shibuya Station, Shibuya JR Park
Possibly my most productive day in Tokyo. I had to make up for lost time and get ahead of my schedule, so I woke up and set out early, walked to the Tokyo Skytree to see it from below, then took a short train ride to the Asakusa Senso-ji Temple (packed with Chinese tourists, and the long walkway in was a tourist trap, but the crowds didn't bother me, the monks were praying, and the beautiful ceiling of the main hall was so worth it). After picking up a few small souvenirs, seeing the sights, and paying homage at the Jinja Shrine, I ate some cream-filled melon buns and took the subway to Akihabara. I'm a huge nerd so I could have spent all my time and savings here, but that's why I made a strict itinerary and only brought carry-ons. I picked up a few souvenirs, had some fun at Super Potato, and tried some games. Then I headed to Harajuku to see the cosplayers and street performers, but I arrived a bit late into the afternoon. I got turned around by the crowds at the exit of the JR Station and ended up wandering into Yoyogi Park by mistake, which was a fortunate mistake, because it was beautiful. Didn't go into the Meiji Shrine (lines were long), but I could admire it from the outside, and the stroll through the wide pathway between tall trees and towering torii gates left me breathless. Finally, I wandered down Takeshita Street and saw some amazing clothes and had some tasty crepes. Then after the obligatory photo with Hachiko, I met up with my old college friend again. We grabbed some Starbucks and watched the busy Shibuya crossing, went into a shopping complex to walk and talk, and finally hung out at the Shibuya VR Park Tokyo. The games here were a bit dated graphically, but the staff was great, and my friend and I had a lot of fun. They did have a couple of English speakers on staff, but thankfully, my friend was able to translate for them. It was a bit late, but that worked to our advantage, because we booked a later appointment, killed time with arcade games and by eating from the Conbini across the street, and since we had 80 minutes and there weren’t many other people, got to experience every attraction with time to spare. Some of the games weren’t the best, but the ones that were fun (the magic carpet, fighting off goblins, the capture-territory shooting game, the gun game, ghost busting, the driving sim) made it more than worth it. The staff worked hard to make things go smoothly, and since both my friend and I are big gamers, I felt it was a great value. I heard tell that the games in the Shinjuku VR Park are apparently more up-to-date and fun, but it's more expensive, harder to get into, and you can only pick four to do from a set list. Them’s the breaks. Eventually my good friend and I had to say goodbye...
What I ought to have done: I wish I had arrived at Harajuku earlier in the afternoon, hadn’t gotten lost due to Google Maps bugging out, seen more of the cosplayers, and spent more time there. I also wish that I had allotted more time to spend in Akihabara, and that I had gone to the @home maid cafe there, since the one I did eventually go to (Maidreamin in Ikebukuro) wasn’t too lively. I also wish I’d bought a shirt or two from Harajuku.
10/2 Mon
Plan: Asakusa (Senso-ji Temple), Tokyo Skytree + Mall, Studio Ghibli (tour appointment for 16:00)
Actual destinations: (train to…) Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (walked to…) Toho Cinemas Godzilla Head, Shinjuku Samurai Museum (took the train to…) Mitaka, Studio Ghibli Museum (returned to…) Big Echo Karaoke, hostel
This was an interesting day, to say the least. None of my Tokyo-dwelling friends could make it to the Studio Ghibli Museum with me, so, not wanting to squander the hard-earned ticket I almost failed to get online, I chatted up a girl at the hostel and invited her to go with me. Long story short, now we’re very good friends, and meeting her was the highlight of my trip Anyway, after making sure she’d meet me there before the appointed 4PM time, I headed to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building to get that sweet view over Tokyo. It was quite breathtaking, and I definitely recommend it, because it’s free. They also sell souvenirs and local foodstuffs at the top there. Then I went on foot past Shinjuku Station and ate lunch at a busy restaurant populated by businessmen. I was disappointed to find that the Shinjuku Gyoen Park was closed for the day (my fault for not checking), so I just went to the totally wicked Shinjuku Samurai Museum (be sure to check online and come by around the same time as the live demonstration, because it was a highlight!). What made this so great was the guided tour. Our tour guide spoke good English, and though much of the history lesson covers the basics, I learned a few interesting things about the equipment, and even got to try on some of it! The museum itself isn’t huge, but the presentation made it worth it. Then, I took the rapid train to Mitaka and walked to the Studio Ghibli Museum. I made it there early (around 3:15PM), but there was already a line of people with 4PM tickets waiting to enter. My friend arrived at 3:30 or so, and the line moved rather quickly. The museum itself was unforgettable and a must-see for any anime fan. The short film was very sweet as well. Afterward, we had dinner in the cafe, then on the way back to our hostel, in between train transfers, we decided to rent a karaoke room at a Big Echo and sing (we were there for 2 hours or so; it was a bit pricey, but ultimately worth it). We returned and bade each other goodnight. Sadly, she’d be checking out the next morning, but that was just the beginning of our friendship.
What I ought to have done: My schedule was so packed, there’s nothing I could really have done about this, but I wish I could have scheduled my Shinjuku trip for a day when the Shinjuku Gyoen Park was open! I was really looking forward to seeing it! I know it’s touristy and silly, and I’ve seen enough videos of it to get the picture, but I somewhat regret not going to the Robot Restaurant. I knew that tickets could be gotten for the earliest show at certain sites online for cheaper than at the door.
10/3 Tue
Plan: Tokyo Tower, Zojo-ji, Sengaku-ji, Odaiba (Joypolis, Onsen Monogatari)
Actual destinations: Tokyo Tower (…walked to) Zojo-ji Temple (…train to) Sengaku-ji Temple (…walked to) Odaiba Onsen Monogatari via the Rainbow Bridge (…walked to) Odaiba Giant Unicorn Gundam
Got a late start due to doing laundry in the morning. Wanted to see Tokyo Tower not just because it’s a famous landmark, but because I wanted to get my One Piece-obsessed friend some gifts. Zojo-ji was beautiful and impressive, and I’m really glad I got to see the graves of the 47 Ronin at Sengaku-ji; I wasn’t the only one paying my respects. Walking all the way from Sengaku-ji and across the various canals to cross the Rainbow Bridge was rather ambitious, but the sights made it worthwhile. It was a real endurance test. Afterward, I relaxed for several hours at the onsen, which I loved. I don’t recommend the Korean food (and someone said as much on Tripadvisor, but I was just craving the dolsot bibimbap… do yourself a favor and go for something else). After a beautiful walk through a slight ocean breeze to see the Unicorn Gundam and the Statue of Liberty, I hopped a train and tried to meet up with a group from my hostel for drinks, but I missed them and had no way of contacting them, so I returned to my hostel. Lo and behold, there they were at the station! Just about to leave for the evening as I was wrapping up my day. I apologized that I was too tired to join them, wished them well, hung out until their train showed up, then returned to my room for some precious and well-earned shut-eye.
What I ought to have done: I don’t recommend anyone do this exact itinerary. This was a ton of walking at one stretch, with the only real rest stop being a bench at the Odaiba end of the long Rainbow Bridge. I could have at least taken the train from Sengaku-ji to Tamachi Station and saved some time and energy, though I wouldn’t have seen as much of this part of the city. Also, this is the day I should have gone to the Tsukiji Fish Market! It was the last day I could have done it, and it would have fit in perfectly with my itinerary. I ought to have deferred my laundry another day, but at least I got to bid goodbye to two of my hostel friends who were checking out. I do wish I'd hung out with my hostel-mates in the evening, though I probably would have struggled the next day, which was a big one…
10/4 Wed
Plan: Koishikawa Korakuen + Shinjuku Gyoen Garden, Museum of Modern Art, Ginza, Ikebukuro
Actual destinations: Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens (…train to) Ikebukuro Sunshine City (…walked to) Ikebukuro Maidreamin Cafe (…train to) Suga Shrine (…walked to) Golden Gai (…train to) Shibuya Station (…walked to) Sakura Tei restaurant (Okonomiyaki and Monjayaki)
This day really threw me for a loop! I was originally going to go to Mt. Fuji today, but upon checking the night before, the forecast was better for Thursday, so I decided to put it off, then head to the Tsukiji Fish Market. Well, turns out the fish market was closed! At least, that’s what someone told me. I didn't realize it was closed on some Wednesdays. So I faced the music - I wouldn’t be going there this trip. Could have planned that better! Anyway, this was one of the best days of my trip. Despite it being a cloudy day, the Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens were immensely beautiful. I don’t know what it was, but turning the first left corner from the entrance, I was moved to tears. It’s not the largest garden, but it felt like everywhere you turned, there was a fantastic view. I probably spent almost two hours here taking snapshots and drinking in the atmosphere. Then it was off to Sunshine City. The first stop was the Sky Circus, which was great and whimsical and all that, but probably better for couples or women. Still, I loved the vibe and the cool little illusions, and the VR roller coaster was fun (if a bit low-poly). I’m glad I went for the Kaleidoscope Room and gift shop, at least. The Sky Circus is obviously way up high, so it’s also a good alternative (or addition) to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. Of course, I had to see the Pokemon Center and play a round of Pokken Tournament. Somehow I was able to resist buying anything. Then I ate lunch near J-World (didn’t feel the need to go in), walked a bit around Sunshine City, popped out the back way into a pretty cool sewing crafts exhibition, then left to check out the Maidreamin maid cafe. I might not particularly recommend this branch to American gaijin, since their English wasn’t the best, but the maids were cute, and the dessert and coffee were tasty. I hopped a train to Shinjuku to see the Suga Shrine (of Kimi no na Wa fame). This was a bit of a walk, but easily worth it for the photo/pilgrimage. I wasn’t the only one there. My original plan was to hit up the Golden Gai and then grab a drink at bar atop the Park Hyatt Tokyo (I’m a huge “Lost in Translation” fan), but after a few minutes of admiring the gritty, lived-in cyberpunk vibe of the Golden Gai, a friend of mine from grade school (!!) who was living in Tokyo saw my IG photos and hit me up online and so we met at Shibuya Station and then walked to Afuri ramen in Harajuku, only to find out they were closed for renovation! So we went to Sakura Tei in Harajuku for their okonomiyaki and monjayaki, and that was easily one of the best meals we had in Japan. We chatted about our lives and hung out in a cafe near Shibuya Station until we had to catch the last trains. Catching up with her was the most surreal experience of my trip. We hadn't talked in almost two decades, but it felt like no time had passed between us…
What I ought to have done: This was pretty much a perfect day. Other than maybe having gone to a different maid cafe and maybe buying that Eevee coin purse, I wouldn’t have changed a thing. Didn’t get to see the Park Hyatt Tokyo, but I got an even better surprise.
10/5 Thu
Plan: Day trip - Fuji-Q + Fujiyama 5th Station hike / Kawaguchiko Music Museum (pick 1-2 of these)
Actual destinations: (…train to) Shinjuku JR Station (…bus to) Fuji-Q Highland (…train to) Lake Kawaguchiko + Kawaguchiko Music Forest
I got up super early this morning and traveled to Shinjuku Station just in time to purchase the Fuji-Q Q-Pack (entrance to Fuji-Q plus a round-trip bus pass) from a kiosk. Return trips from Kawaguchiko the same day were sold out, so I had to purchase a return trip the next morning. The reasons why I wanted to go to Fuji-Q were (A) I am a roller coaster fanatic, and (B) I am an Evangelion fanatic. On both counts, the theme park did not disappoint. I was expecting long lines, however.
As soon as the park opened to the general public, I walked up to the fast-pass counter and bought two fast-passes (1,000 Yen each, an easy purchase for me) for Takabisha and Fujiyama. (sadly, Eenjanaika was closed for maintenance that day, but for anyone who’s ridden Six Flags Magic Mountain’s X2, it looked a bit like that coaster, only larger). Then I lined up for Dododonpa, which wasn’t open yet. The lines were not too bad. I got to ride Dododonpa in about twenty to thirty minutes, and that was a heck of an experience! I now know what a bullet feels like leaving the chamber! Then I immediately lined up for Takabisha, which was a really fun and very technical coaster. It wasn’t as scary as it looked, but it sure was enjoyable and memorable. The lines had not gotten ridiculous by this point and I waited about 30 minutes as well. Then I had a good hour or so until I had to use my Takabisha fast pass, so I rode most of the other rides in the park (aside from the water rides - I did not have a change of clothing!). After my second Takabisha ride, I rode Fujiyama, which I really wish I had the time to ride again. It was just an epic, solid, intense coaster. It doesn’t loop or corkscrew, but it’s crazy fun, and the thrill factor is pretty high. I really do hope Fuji-Q end up changing their policy and group single riders together, because given the amount of people at the park, the lines really shouldn’t have been as long as they were. The Evangelion World exhibit was everything I wanted and more. I stocked up at that store for sure.
Then I intended to walk to Lake Kawaguchiko. I wasted some time getting turned around by Google Maps before I gave in and decided to take the train there. The train, by the way, is tucked away in the back of Fuji-Q. I had to re-enter the park and exit out the back way just to find the train station. Since it was quite close by, the ticket to Kawaguchiko was very cheap. Because the afternoon was drawing to a close, I hailed a taxi to take me from the Lake Kawaguchiko Station to the Kawaguchiko Music Forest. I’m so glad I visited this place. It was immensely beautiful and nostalgic, I was invigorated by the carefully-tended gardens and grounds, and the automatic music concerts were delightful. The shop, in addition to boasting a very wide selection of music boxes, also has some handcrafted stuff made in the Mt. Fuji area, including some well-priced pottery that made a good present for my other friend in Tokyo. Also, the admission was much cheaper after 4 PM, but I could have easily spent more time here. Afterward, I checked into a capsule hotel for the night, which was more spacious and comfortable than I expected, and emailed to apologize to my hostel that I would be a few minutes late for check-out.
What I ought to have done: I was waiting on the weather (because Fuji-Q closes their coasters if it rains), but I really could have purchased my tickets earlier so as to get a same-day return trip. That said, I don’t mind that I stayed the night in Kawaguchiko, because I was finally able to get a clear shot of Mt. Fuji in the morning and walk a bit around the area before boarding my return bus. Also, this was a risk I was willing to take, but I really didn’t need to buy that second fast-pass. Still, riding Takabisha twice was worth spending another 1,000 Yen. I do wish that I’d experienced the Attack on Titan VR ride, but after spending so much in one day already, I was too cheap to give it a shot…
10/6 Fri
Plan: Activate JR Pass. Check out of hostel. Go to Kamakura. Visit Akira Kurosawa's grave site. Stay at my friend’s place in Tokyo.
Actual destinations: (...train to) Engakuji Temple (...train to) An’yo-in Temple (...train to) Yokohama Cosmo Clock (...train to) Nagano Broadway + Don Quijote
This day went very smoothly. I activated my JR Pass upon arriving at Shinjuku Station (very easy, just bring your document and passport to the right office), returned to my hostel to check out, and stashed my bag at a coin locker in between Kamakura and my final destination. Visiting the graves of Yasujiro Ozu and Akira Kurosawa all went pretty much as planned. I finally bought some decent insoles to replace the worn non-removable cheap ones on my shoes and ease my busted-up feet. I also loosened up my laces. Following this, I immediately felt better. While I was caught in the sudden downpour of rain, I frantically searched for Mr. Ozu’s grave site in the large and beautiful Engakuji Temple. I finally found the right one and offered him a bottle of wine and my thanks. Then I took a short train ride, got a poncho, and walked to the An’yo-in Temple to see Mr. Kurosawa. I had a bit of a time finding the An’yo-in Temple’s cemetery in the rain and had to ask the monk in residence whether the cemetery was even open (he was a very kind man who walked me all the way to Mr. Kurosawa’s grave, even in the rain - he didn’t need to, but he really went that extra mile!). Anyway, starting from the street, instead of going up the stairs and through the gate, head straight up the pathway that curves up and to the right, then make a left to enter the cemetery. After paying my respects to one of my favorite filmmakers, I returned to Tokyo, but got off the train at Yokohama to ride the Cosmo Clock Ferris Wheel, made famous in one of my favorite anime, Honey and Clover. Sadly, the rain made getting photos difficult, but it was still a fantastic view. Following this, I watched the cool light show that happens at the top of the hour, then headed back to Tokyo to meet up with yet another old friend of mine. We ate some delicious ramen outside of the now-closed shops of Nagano Broadway, did a bit of shopping at Don Quijote, and then watched videos on the street food in Dotonbori to prepare for my Osaka night.
What I ought to have done: I ought to have bought an umbrella instead of a poncho. I wondered why people didn’t use ponchos as much, and discovered the hard way that (A) it’s easier to open and close an umbrella than take your poncho on and off, (B) taking off your poncho and putting it in a plastic bag before sitting in trains is tedious but necessary, and (C) it gets kinda humid under there. My friend ended up giving me his extra umbrella, which I’m eternally thankful for. I also wish I had time to see Kotoku-in (and the giant Daibutsu Buddha statue), but alas. It was raining, I didn’t want to risk getting sick, and I really wanted to ride that ferris wheel, since Honey and Clover had a lot of special significance to my late sister, and to my new friend.
10/7 Sat
Plan: Travel to Nikko in AM. Leave to Kyoto in PM. Stay night at Kyoto hostel (excepting the night of 10/9, this is my base until 10/13).
Actual destinations: (...train to) Nikko JR Station (...bus to) Nikko National Park (…train to) Kyoto Station
Now, this was an ambitious day. The trip to Nikko station (with a transfer at Utsonomiya) was beautiful, and very worthwhile. I'd shelled out for a Green JR Pass, hoping to lean back, stretch out my legs, charge my electronics, and get some nice rest during my longer shinkansen trips. And all that did become possible, though the trips were so relaxing and the views so beautiful, they felt over in a flash, and I don’t think I really needed the luxurious seats. That said, I don’t regret getting the Green Pass. Once at Nikko, I stashed my backpack in a coin locker, then quickly bought the bus pass (not necessary, but helpful), lined up outside the JR Station, and rode the Tobu Bus all the way up to Senjogahara Marshlands, where I got off and began the breathtaking walk down to Lake Chuzenji. At this time of year, the autumn leaves were mostly occurring at the higher altitudes here. It was a beautiful and calming walk along the lakeside to be sure, and I saw the Ryuzu Falls along the way. There was a lot of fog surrounding the Kegon Falls, but I wasn’t about to leave until I saw the falls and could see just how far they went, so I hung out there a bit. Then I took the bus back down to the bridge for a selfie, then walked around to see the UNESCO Shrines and Temples for a spell, but I’d spent too much time in the highlands and was running out of daylight. I didn’t want to arrive too late at my Kyoto hostel to be a nuisance, nor did I feel like paying a large fee for what would have to be a quick trip, so I didn’t get to see the Toshogu Shrine. No big deal. I grabbed my backpack and headed to my destination. The ride to Kyoto was long and thankfully uneventful, and my check-in went smoothly.
What I ought to have done: I might have gotten to see more of the shrines and temples if I’d spent a tad less time dawdling around and taking innumerable photos of the highlands (though I did like the old-school vibe of the lake-town) and buying postcards and such from the gift shops, or if I’d foregone spending time at the bridge. That said, I actively prioritized seeing the National Park, and I think I made pretty good time and progress. I also regret ordering the soba at the conveniently located restaurant at the JR Utsonomiya station. It was rather bland.
10/8 Sun
Plan: Day trip - Kyoto to Nara.
Actual destinations: (...train to) Nara - Nara Park, Kasuga Taisha, Todaiji Temple, Kofukuji Temple, etc… (...train to) Fushimi Inari-taisa Shrine (...train to) Kyoto Station
Wasting no time in putting my JR Pass to use, I traveled to Nara for what I’d planned to be a day trip. It was a relaxing trip, and I saw all I’d been hoping to see. Coming from the Sierras where we have skinny deer that bolt at the sight of a person, the wild deer here were quite a unique sight. The Giant Buddha was a highlight. This was a 3-day holiday weekend and it felt like it, with hordes of tourists, both Japanese and foreign. Kofukuji’s Main Hall was under renovation, but I did enjoy walking the grounds and seeing the five-story pagoda. Didn’t see the National Treasure Museum, but I should have. Then I headed back to Kyoto in the afternoon. I hit up the must-see Fushimi Inari-taisha and was woefully unprepared for the density of the crowds at ground level, and how so many women were attempting to take these many, many stairs in kimono. I would have walked all the way to the top at one clip, but my batteries were dying (I accidentally brought the wrong power bank with me) light was running out, and I was getting tired and frustrated from having to either weave through tourists or keep to their sluggish pace, which ended up being rather rough on my feet and legs. I cut across at one point to the bamboo grove and took a cutoff path across the woods back to the main pathway. Finally, I made it about halfway or so to a couple of gorgeous lookouts in time to catch the sun setting over western Kyoto. I weighed my options of attempting to walk all the way up, or heading back down and leaving. The crowds did thin out a bit the nearer one gets to the top. I knew that I could make the walk, but I was tired and a tad worried at the prospect of being completely without my phone and pocket wifi, so I headed back down. Seeing the crowds at the train station, I attempted to walk 20-odd minutes from Fushimi Inari to the Nintendo HQ building to get my obligatory pilgrimage photo, but I took a wrong turn and ended up spending an inordinate amount of time finding my way back to the subway, and eventually, to my hostel.
What I ought to have done: I really should have made sure that the power bank I brought with me was charged. This would have saved me a lot of stress. I might have felt confident enough to get all the way to the top of Fushimi Inari, and I definitely wouldn’t have gotten lost. I also attempted to visit the Tofuku-ji Temple, but couldn’t figure out where to go after leaving the subway, and Google Maps was not helping, so I continued on to Fushimi Inari, hoping to see it another day (it never happened). I also shouldn’t have knowingly attempted Fushimi Inari on a holiday weekend, a mistake akin to getting involved in a land war in Asia.
10/9 Mon
Plan: Travel - Hida Folk Village in Takayama - Takayama Autumn Festival - stay night in Takayama (onsen hostel).
Actual destinations: (...train to) Takayama JR Station (...bus to) Hida Folk Village (...bus to) Takayama JR Station (...walk to) Takayama Jinja (...walk back to) Takayama JR Station (...shuttle bus to) Natural Onsen Hostel Hidamari no Yu
Another day that didn’t go exactly as planned, but it was still a beautiful and memorable experience. It was a bit of a long ride to Takayama and due to only reserving my seats at Kyoto Station the night before, I wasn’t able to get a window seat on the Hida Wide View 3, but the windows were so wide, I was still blown away by the immense beauty of this region. This was hands-down the most beautiful ride I’ve been on. I know many people recommend Shirakawa-go over the Hida Folk Village, but as someone very interested in sustainability, I was drawn to the promise of an open-air museum and the exhibits explaining how the people worked and lived in the countryside. So I spent an inordinate amount of time there, and I fell in love. With the help of a kind woman, I, a 30-year-old man, also made myself a nice kaleidoscope (if you do this, make the wet, not dry one, it’s so much cooler). Then it was off to see the Takayama Autumn Festival. I obviously missed the bulk of the festival in the morning and afternoon, including the midday puppet show, but what I learned from the Hida Folk Village out-prioritized that for me. I walked from the JR Station, ate some of the local food (Hida Beef really is that good!), hung around the river, and soaked in historical Takayama. Then the sun set and they’d finally prepared the gorgeous and ornate floats for the nighttime part of the festival. I stuck around until 7PM or so. Then, full from expensive festival food, decided to take the shuttle bus to my cheap onsen hostel. As a solo traveler, I was simply looking for the cheapest functioning onsen in the area, and the place I went to suited me just fine. I stayed in a large 20-person dorm, and they do close the premises from 11:30 to 7:00 AM, but if you’re aware of that and just want a place to bathe with soothing hot spring and jacuzzi baths, an outdoor hot spring as well, a decent sauna and cold pool (where I spent most of my time), and a futon to sleep on, this place was crazy cheap, great for a weary soul, and it got the job done. Be aware that they may not always have shuttle buses leaving early in the morning, but I was able to get one at 7:30 AM that took me right back across the street from the Takayama JR Station. All in all, I had a great experience here, no complaints, but I can see why people didn't like the "give us the key to your shoe locker until morning" policy.
What I ought to have done: I don’t regret missing the day portion of the Takayama Festival, which was just a bonus for me, and perhaps due to the festival, the Hida Folk Village was rather empty and peaceful. However, I wish I knew in advance that the shuttle bus to my onsen hostel boarded across the street from the JR Station. I could have gotten there 20-30 minutes earlier.
Reaching the character limit, so I will continue in the comments below... thank you for reading...